Vintage Champagne: what is it and is it worth it?

Moët & Chandon, originally Moët et Cie, has been producing champagne in Épernay from chardonnay grapes like these since 1743.

James Bond introduced me to vintage champagne when I was a wee lad of only eight or nine:

“My dear girl, there are some things that just aren’t done, such as drinking Dom Perignon ’53 above the temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s just as bad as listening to the Beatles without earmuffs!” ~ James Bond in Goldfinger (1964)

Of course, I didn’t really understand that Dom Perignon was a champagne, or even what champagne was, but ever since then I knew that this thing called “Dom Perignon” could be associated with one specific year.

And I still think the dig about the Beatles is funny. The film was made in ’64, before Sgt. Pepper, The White Album, etc. I wonder if James’ opinion of The Beatles has changed since 1964?

What is vintage Champagne?

A vintage Champagne is a Champagne made with grapes from a single year’s harvest. This contrasts with non-vintage champagne, the kind that most of us buy more often, that is made with grapes from multiple years’ harvests.

Why use grapes from multiple harvests?

Using grapes from multiple harvests allows the Champagne makers to compensate for the quirks of each harvest (too hot, too cold, etc.) to produce Champagnes with the appropriate flavor profile.

Conversely, a vintage Champagne, because it is made with grapes from a single harvest, becomes an expression of that year’s harvest. Therefore, the harvest must be exceptional for a Champagne maker to devote the time and energy into producing a vintage release.

Is a vintage Champagne better than a non-vintage Champagne?

Because vintage Champagnes cost more, it would seem that they should be better. On a recent tour of two Champagne houses, Taittinger and Moët & Chandon, we had the chance to try a vintage and non-vintage bottle from each producer.

Vintage Champagne vs. non-vintage Champagne tasting notes

Taittinger non-vintage

Color: Clear, pale yellow

Nose: Hint of yeast, doughy, lemony

Taste: Light, citrus, driest of all three we tasted, Most forward acidity

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2007

Color: Clear, pale yellow

Nose: Citrus, a touch of honey, floral, yeast, maybe almonds

Taste: Creamy, buttery mouth feel; dry, nutty, faint hint of orange blossom, apricot (or perhaps nectarine?)

Moët non-vintage

Color: Clear, pale yellow

Nose: Faintly Floral, faintly honey, mostly citrus ~ lemon, grapefruit

Taste: Crisp, citrus, minerality with a hint of peach

Moët 2009 rosé

Color: Beautiful, light peach or blush

Nose: Yeasty, warm bread, faint citrus, hint of cherry jam

Taste:Crisp, bright, dry but not acidic, smooth mouth feel, hint of cherry or strawberry

Bottom line: is there a difference?

Yes, there is a difference. The vintage Champagnes had more flavors in both the nose and the taste, and the mouth feel was smoother and creamier than the non-vintage Champagnes.

But is vintage Champagne worth the price?

That’s for you to decide, but I know that we’ll be drinking a lot more champagne ~ vintage and non-vintage ~ in the future.

And now, some Champagne trivia

What sparkling wines can be called “Champagne”?

A sparkling wine can only be called “Champagne” with a capital “C” if it comes from the Champagne region of France and is made according to the regulations in the Appellation d’origins Controlée (AOC). All other wines, even if made with the same “méthode champagnois,” must be called sparkling wines. That’s why sparkling wines from California, such as Chandon wines, are not called “Champagne.”

Which grapes are used to make Champagne?

Chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier are the most frequently used grapes, but others are permitted. The full list of grapes that may be used to produce Champagne are:

• Pinot Noir
• Meunier
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Blanc
• Pinot Gris
• Petit Meslier

What’s the correct pronunciation of “Moët”?

You’re probably most familiar with Moët & Chandon from the Queen song, “Killer Queen”:
She keeps Moët Chandon
In her pretty cabinet
“Let them eat cake,” she says
Just like Marie Antoinette

However, Freddie is taking artistic license with the pronunciation. Claude Moët, the founder of Moët Champagne, was indeed French but his surname was Dutch. According to our guide at Moët & Chandon, the proper pronunciation is, “mwet”: one syllable, just add a “m” sound before “wet.”

It’s good to know the proper pronunciation, but I’m sure I’ll still say it like Freddie did.

The Champagne region is centered around Épernay; where is that?

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